Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Craig Luebben, Sari Schmetterer, Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, and George Hurley. 1988
Page Views: 653 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tommy O. on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Pitch 1. Fun and varied right facing offwidth. Stack, chicken wing & squeeze if you can up to a fixed pin then launch into a squeeze chimney that will squeeze you back and eventually force you to crush some more offwidth (blue big bros or a #9 valley giant helps make this less of a religious experience) #6 Camalots are good to have but useless up high. This has been called 5.10 but I would add a few +'s unless you are a 7 year old or Craig Luebben. 2 bolt belay with rap rings in chimney. 5.10

Pitch 2. Chimney between the pillar and the main wall. The Karl Kelly book says that there is "no worthwhile pro" and I would agree. Enjoy the spirit quest as this is a fun pitch. 5.8 X


Route starts in the right facing corner on the north side of the tower


Pitch 1. Camalots:
2 #3's
1 new #4
1 #5
3 #6's
#9 valley giant or blue big bros
One quick draw for the piton 1/2 way
You could bring more wide gear but then it would be hard to make any upward progress.
Two bolt anchor with rap rings

Pitch 2.
nuts 1 set
draws for nuts
2 angled pitons with webbing on main wall for anchor

We did two rappels using a single 70 meter rope.