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Routes in 2. West (So West) Slabs & Area

Middle Slab T WI2-3
Old Speck Stream WI2+
Type: Trad, Ice, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 328 total · 14/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

The middle slab of the three, connected, "Willies Slide" type slabs. We climbed the right side of the flow in four (4) or five (5) pitches depending on your pitch length. Belays can be off of trees in the upper section.

Location

Slabs are on the West (left side of road headed north). There's usually a plowed pull-out on the right about 1/2 mile south of the large AT parking lot. [You can also park here for "Old Speck Stream climbing and save the walk south from the AT-Parking to the stream.]

Park at the pull out, walk back south 0.1 mile or so and head into the woods. Cross a snowmobile track and continue to the drainage from the main slab. Follow this, with diversions to the side on occasion, 500 vertical feet up to the base.
After the day is over, Down-Soloing this 500 vertical feet may be the technical crux in low-snow years like 2016. Think of the whole thing as an "adventure".

DESCENT: We rapped using the trees on on the right [5, or 6?, raps plus one 75 ft section of hike-through-the-woods] with a single 70m. A single 60 would be problematical on the rap from the fixed anchor marked on the photo that "connects" the tree patches.

Mountain-Project-user "Ben" reported a "walk-off" which I've added to the photo. However, two CAUTIONS with this "walk-off":
1) Be aware of the potential avalanche hazard, especially crossing the "snow ramp" below the small slab and above the climber's-right larger slab. (Red "W's)
2) This crossing may be more than a walk off and judgement as to whether to belay it is crucial, especially in low-snow years. Ben reported at least one instance where "I had to snag my partner with the tip of my ice tool to keep him from taking the (BIG) ride."

Protection

Usual screws plus long slings to extend from trees. We climbed the right side of the "central slab" and utilized trees for several belays.

Photos

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