Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lightning Bolt Crag

Crack Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracker Dream TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge to a Smear TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Vertical Beach T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: ????
Page Views: 57 total · 2/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Feb 28, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Another route I've entered to which I know very little. I onsighted it with no knowledge of prior ascents. Please leave information in the comments if you know the name and history of this crack.

Starts off easy enough with first pro 15ft or so up. Black rock is slippery, light rock is crumbly. Crack widens in spots. Good pro (#3) near the crux, so it's got that going for it. Liebacked the right side of the crack while smearing on ball bearings on the left. Very tiring for my fat weekend ass. .10a or less, probably less if you climb more often than I (maybe twice a month now).

I'd avoid it.

Location

One crack to the right of Scorpion Crack

Protection

I recall using doubles from .5-3, and a #4. Didn't use nuts or tiny cams.

Used anchor for Lightning Crack.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About Vertical Beach

Printer-Friendly Guide