Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Kevin Kent, Tim Bryant, Casey Niggemyer
Page Views: 299 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Kent on Feb 28, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

The largest animal that actively hunts humans, this one throws a little bit of everything at you to make one of the best routes around.
Start in the obvious bolted left-facing dihedral on the south face of the Bear Gun. As the holds disappear employ funky body-english maneuvers to find yourself at the base of the roof. Pull through on small slopers and tough jams and then sprint up the perfect ringlock corner crack as the pump builds to a fat ledge. From the ledge work your way up and left through another roof which thankfully has good feet and then blast up the featured hand crack. Awesome top out by laybacking a massive roof crack past a bolt. Belay from the tree or the summit anchor.

Location

South face of the Bear Gun, visible from the saddle.
The whole tower and approach goes into the shade around 1 or 2 pm.

Protection

Singles of C3s to #3, double up the .5 - #2 sizes, no nuts. You could place a #4 or #5 high up but the climbing here is about 5.7. The rap can be done back to the saddle with a single 70m rope but it's very tight and the "landing" is sloping and exposed, so bring 2 ropes if you can't handle that.

Photos

J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Tigers bro. You forgot tigers. And the occasional bold marmot. Feb 28, 2016