Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cyanide Gully

Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duct Taped Plum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sierra Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silverback T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unspeakable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Berstead, Jones
Page Views: 191 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 26, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Put this one on your must do list for Pine Creek. Not a perfect route, a bit loose at the start and can't say I didn't wonder about the giant flake you climb at the top, but the climbing and position are great. A low first bolt, maybe due to the questionable rock at the very bottom protects a move or two to a positive rail. Not hard but balancey moves to the third bolt, where you don't want to fall, lead to better protected and to me harder climbing on bomber rock above. A clip around the 5th or sixth bolt was the crux for me. After that great positive holds lead up to a ledge at the base of the ever widening flake. Exposed and steep jamming up the flake leads to a cool move to a small ledge and finishes up the perfect knee size crack to the anchor. Make sure to have a few shoulder length slings at the top to keep your rope off the razor sharp flake that is the "chopper" of the route.

Location

Uphill from the Silverback . The obvious bolted route high up the hill with a very low first bolt.

Protection

8 or more draws, 3 or more shoulder length slings and pro from a #1 Camalot to a #5. I had an old 5 but could have got the new 5 in sooner. The old 5 was perfect at the top though. Not sure I would want to carry both. You might want less but I was happy to have one each from a #1 to a #5. Also an old bigger #4 was nice.

Photos

Felt better on this today. Could have easily got by with 1 ea. #2,#3, old #4,and new #5. Also do not forget a few runners for the gear in the wide to avoid the chop. Mar 3, 2016

More About Orange County Choppers

Printer-Friendly Guide