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Orange County Choppers
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
Routes in Cyanide Gully
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Africa Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling in the Tournafortia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Day glo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Escapade Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feel tha Bern S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Grape Ape S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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King of the Jungle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Love is a Dog Straight From Hell T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oblivious S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange County Choppers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rizzla - extension to Zig Zag T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Semper Farcisimus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silverback S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silverback Extension T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swallow Dance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sympathy for the Grinder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Berstead, Jones |
| Page Views: | 1,153 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 26, 2016 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Put this one on your must do list for Pine Creek. Not a perfect route, a bit loose at the start and can't say I didn't wonder about the giant flake you climb at the top, but the climbing and position are great. A low first bolt, maybe due to the questionable rock at the very bottom protects a move or two to a positive rail. Not hard but balancey moves to the third bolt, where you don't want to fall, lead to better protected and to me harder climbing on bomber rock above. A clip around the 5th or sixth bolt was the crux for me. After that great positive holds lead up to a ledge at the base of the ever widening flake. Exposed and steep jamming up the flake leads to a cool move to a small ledge and finishes up the perfect knee size crack to the anchor. Make sure to have a few shoulder length slings at the top to keep your rope off the razor sharp flake that is the "chopper" of the route.
Location
Uphill from the Silverback . The obvious bolted route high up the hill with a very low first bolt.
Protection
8 or more draws, 3 or more shoulder length slings and pro from a #1 Camalot to a #5. I had an old 5 but could have got the new 5 in sooner. The old 5 was perfect at the top though. Not sure I would want to carry both. You might want less but I was happy to have one each from a #1 to a #5. Also an old bigger #4 was nice.
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