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Routes in South Cliffs

Cast Iron T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Iron Arch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Ore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ironing Board T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soft Iron T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Iron T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jonathan Baldassare, Jonathan Garlough, Brad White, Bob Ahearn
Page Views: 138 total, 6/month
Shared By: chinos on Feb 25, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A fun outing that tackles a striking crack in the center of the headwall. This route shares the start with P1 of Iron Maiden.

P1: Start at the main toe of the slab and climb the black streak past a bolt to easier terrain. Follow the left arching flake until it ends and traverse right to a tree anchor. 110’ 5.4

P2: Climb straight up off the anchor passing three spaced bolts in the slab to a horizontal with gear. Finish at a double oak tree anchor. 110’ 5.7

P3: Walk up and left to the bulge and gain a crack that angles to the right. Follow the crack right until it ends and continue up the black slab past two bolts to a bolt anchor below the headwall. 100’ 5.6

P4: Double ropes may be useful on this pitch. Clip a bolt on the headwall and make a ridiculous mantle onto the sloping ledge (crux). Work right across the ledge with gear to a crack. Follow the steep crack up and left to a ledge. Climb onto a large right facing corner/flake and make a committing mantle to a belay at a cluster of spruce trees. 70’ 5.11+

P5: Finish up the right facing right angling corner to a large tree anchor at the summit. 60’ 5.5

FA: Jonathan Garlough & Brad White climbed pitches 1 and 2
Jonathan Baldassare, Jonathan Garlough & Bob Ahearn added pitches 3, 4, and 5.

Location

South Cliffs

Protection

Standard Rack, Bolts

Photos

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