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Routes in Southern Pillar

Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 1 August 2015
Page Views: 184 total, 9/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Feb 23, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Originally led ground-up with a small tree overhanding a ledge about 2/3rds the way up. Two kicks of the tree on rappel sent it tumbling down into the chimney. First of three first known ascents on this wall. See also Window to the West and Free Ballin'. The dangling tree caught Baumgartner's rack on the way up, hence the name.

Start at the two-bolt anchor and step right on to a protruding block. Use the right flake to gain the small roof, travers left about 5 feet, and step on to the face (crux). The climbing backs off here after. Follow the left-leaning crack to a ledge and then continue straight up through the ever increasing crack. A #4 is helpful through this section.

From a small ledge about 2/3rds up, you have to choices to gain the anchor. Either follow the crack on the right to the top and traverse left to the new two-bolt anchor. Or step left to the larger crack that leads straight to the same anchor.

Location

The easier but not necessarily the most pleasant way to gain the route is to ascend the Great Chimney. Climb the Great Chimney past the two trees on the dirt slope to a new two-bolt ring anchor.

A 70m rope from the anchor at the base of the route will return you to the bottom of the Great Chimney.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. A #4 is helpful. Two-bolt anchors at the base and apex of the route.

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