Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: 1 August 2015
Page Views: 226 total · 7/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Feb 23, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Originally led ground-up with a small tree overhanding a ledge about 2/3rds the way up. Two kicks of the tree on rappel sent it tumbling down into the chimney. First of three first known ascents on this wall. See also Window to the West and Free Ballin'. The dangling tree caught Baumgartner's rack on the way up, hence the name.

Start at the two-bolt anchor and step right on to a protruding block. Use the right flake to gain the small roof, travers left about 5 feet, and step on to the face (crux). The climbing backs off here after. Follow the left-leaning crack to a ledge and then continue straight up through the ever increasing crack. A #4 is helpful through this section.

From a small ledge about 2/3rds up, you have to choices to gain the anchor. Either follow the crack on the right to the top and traverse left to the new two-bolt anchor. Or step left to the larger crack that leads straight to the same anchor.

Location

The easier but not necessarily the most pleasant way to gain the route is to ascend the Great Chimney. Climb the Great Chimney past the two trees on the dirt slope to a new two-bolt ring anchor.

A 70m rope from the anchor at the base of the route will return you to the bottom of the Great Chimney.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. A #4 is helpful. Two-bolt anchors at the base and apex of the route.

Photos

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