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Routes in High Tension Towers

Black Chicks in Heat S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brothers in Arms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
C.L.O.T. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Insulated T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Electric Kachina T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hatchett Job S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Just Under The Wire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scorpion S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparky Does Power Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 521 total · 22/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 23, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.

Location

Left of Just Under the Wire

Protection

5 bolts to a lower off anchor. On my second lead of this I was happy to have a 2.5 Tricam between the 4th and 5th bolts. Can you find the spot and make it work?

Photos

Nick Wilder
The Bubble
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
This is the highly offensive route name given by the FA, and believed to be named after this movie.

In general, MP reports the names of routes as given by the FA (until they decide to change it), though there has been lengthy discussion about this, and there is definitely no perfect solution to these situations. May 27, 2016