Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 636 total · 18/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 23, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Thin climbing to the second bolt leads to a sequence of incuts all the way to the anchor. If you make it to the first bolt you're in there. Getting to the second isn't bad. After that finding the right path of giant holds and keeping a cool head will get you through. The runout between the 4th and 5th will get your attention. A great tricam placement almost exactly between the 4th and 5th removes the R rating altogether. As far as R rated routes go this one isn't too bad. Everyone in our group found the moves up to the 2nd bolt more like 10c after that it's like a puzzle of runout 5.8.

Location

Left of Just Under the Wire

Protection

5 bolts to a lower off anchor. On my second lead of this I was happy to have a 2.5 Tricam between the 4th and 5th bolts. Can you find the spot and make it work?

Photos

Nick Wilder
Boulder, CO
Nick Wilder   Boulder, CO  
This is the highly offensive route name given by the FA, and believed to be named after this movie.

In general, MP reports the names of routes as given by the FA (until they decide to change it), though there has been lengthy discussion about this, and there is definitely no perfect solution to these situations. May 27, 2016