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Routes in Neat Rock Main Formation

Pinnacle Toprope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinnacle Toprope (South face) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Lobster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Direct finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Standard Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunny Butterflies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V1 5 PG13
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Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 181 total · 6/month
Shared By: Adam Pankratz on Feb 22, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

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Also known as the Spire, Chicken head, Marmot's head, etc. Multiple variations can be done depending on where you set the rope. Choose one of the various easy 5.6 or so cracks until you get just under neath the obvious roof, traverse around right. Then pull through a few bulges near the top before traversing left to top out at the anchor. Walk off right, or use the rap rings on the left side of the formation.


As you pull up to the the main parking area of Neat Rock its right at the base in the center of the crag. Scramble up the left gully then squeeze through a hole to get to the anchor or head East and hike the main walk off trail used by many other routes.


Three bolts are on top for top roping. The two west facing bolts have chains and rap rings. Use a cordlette to set up a rope on the south face.



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