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Pain Relief

5.9+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 213 votes
FA: Arin Finch, KH
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (04) Second Pul… > Sweet Pain Wall
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

A nice combination of delicate balance, powerful bouldering, and edgy face climbing, all in the first three bolts. After that the climbing eases considerably.

The crux is getting above the second bolt, which you should high clip with your feet in the bowl, since getting much higher than this before clipping the second bolt would mean a potential ground fall.

Location

This route is in between Pain in the Neck and A-Cute Pain. It goes through the big bowl/pocket to the right of Pain in the Neck. The first bolt is in the middle of the pocket.

Protection

This is a sport route -- I think there were 6 bolts and the anchor -- but we placed a small cam (0.3 C4) from the ground to protect the belayer, since the route starts on a ledge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lizzie Gao on "Pain Relief"
[Hide Photo] Lizzie Gao on "Pain Relief"
Cam in the smooth hueco of Pain Relief.
[Hide Photo] Cam in the smooth hueco of Pain Relief.
Three different methods through the hueco
[Hide Photo] Three different methods through the hueco
Here you can see the climber position for clipping the second bolt -- you could clip with either hand -- and the small cam (0.3 C4) placement we used the protect the belayer when we led the route.
[Hide Photo] Here you can see the climber position for clipping the second bolt -- you could clip with either hand -- and the small cam (0.3 C4) placement we used the protect the belayer when we led the route.
Chris climbing out of the bowl. The first bolt is visible in the bowl below him, the second bolt is hidden between him and the wall, and the third bolt is visible above him.
[Hide Photo] Chris climbing out of the bowl. The first bolt is visible in the bowl below him, the second bolt is hidden between him and the wall, and the third bolt is visible above him.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] We thought this was Pain in the Neck when we climbed, but then we looked at the photos on here for Pain in the Neck and noticed the bolts on this route are not in them! So, this must be a relatively new route. Feb 21, 2016
Chris Burton
Los Angeles, Ca
[Hide Comment] somebody ought to pull those bolts. that one in the bowl will totally change Pain in the Neck.
some people shouldn't be allowed to use power tools. Feb 21, 2016
Arin F
Las Vegas
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Route is called Pain Relief Feb 26, 2016
W L
NEVADASTAN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Super fun route that serves as a great warmup for the wall. That being said...no way this thing is 5.10 Jun 10, 2016
Cory B
Fresno, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Anchor bolt is loose in the hole. Needs replacement Mar 31, 2021