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Routes in The Caves

Balrog, The V6+ 7A
Bouloutain's Arete V6 7A
Cave Crack V5 6C
High Jinx V0+ 4+ PG13
Honeybun Arete V2 5+ PG13
Kind That Go Ding, The V5 6C PG13
L'angle V2 5+
Low Jinx V2 5+ PG13
Pele V8 7B
Sumo Wrestler V7 7A+ PG13
Yosemite Arete V9 7C R
Yosemite Crack V10 7C+ PG13
v1 V1 5
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 241 total · 10/month
Shared By: John C. on Feb 20, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Description

Start with your left hand on a sloping rail and your right hand on a good crimp sidepull. Get a high right foot and dyno for the slopey lip, then mantle over. This problem was originally climbed at V5, using the right hand side pull and a small left hand crimp up high. The crimp now appears to be broken off, making the dyno significantly longer and more difficult.

Location

To the left of Bouloutian's ArĂȘte

Protection

2 pads

Photos

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I broke this thing, my bad. I think it was in the winter of 2013. I was trying to do the last move somewhat static and back splatted when I blew the hold off the wall. I am a pretty small dude so it was definitely a time bomb either way. glad to see it forced a way cooler move. Dec 27, 2017
Tim Quick
Nazareth, Pa
Tim Quick   Nazareth, Pa
Im pretty sure this has been broken going back to 2014 (or possibly earlier). It was climbed in October of 14 without the left hand crimp that is called out for the v5 description in Char's guidebook. I'd agree that its more in line with a 6 now. Feb 24, 2016
Drew Davis sent the line on 12/12/15 in its broken state. Feb 23, 2016
The first ascent after the broken hold I believe was made by John Cohee. I have heard of no other ascents since the break correct me if someone has any farther knowledge. Feb 20, 2016

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