Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Tattle Tale Gully
|Clear Cut T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Killjoy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
FFA: Joshua Janes & Joanne Urioste
|Page Views:||279 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionClear Cut is a fun and challenging little pitch just right of Killjoy. Belay from the lowest flat area and scramble up an easy corner to a ledge. From here carefully step right into the obvious left-facing flake and place your first piece. Continue up the flake being judicious with gear placements and climbing delicately as the flake is hollow for a 10-15 foot stretch. Above this move left on excellent varnish to a stance (crux). Pull onto the steep wall above and up on surprisingly good holds to an anchor above a ledge. Instead of taking the steep headwall, it is also possible to continue left from the stance following the flake all the way to its end.
LocationLocated up the Tattle Tale Gully, this route is exactly 600 feet from the start of Olive Oil. Once you scramble through the notch to enter the gully, tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis (the obvious, beautiful leaning wide crack) and continue scrambling along the righthand wall for another 450 feet. The routes are on the right.
And yes, I did say "tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis".