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Butterflies Arete

5.7, TR, 35 ft,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Utah > Saint George > Green Valley Gap


Sustained thoughtful moves for the first twenty feet (with sidepulls and footholds on both sides of the crest). Then easier fun moves up the "razor" to the top.

Start up the gully to right bottom of arete. About five feet up, step horizontal left over onto crest of the arete (onto unseen big foothold using unseen big handhold).
. . . Variation 1 (like 5.9): Start on the face about four feet left from the arete for the first couple of moves, then move right to join the arete.
. . . Variation 2 (harder): Start directly on the arete.

Straight up the crest of arete, then finish up the razor.

warning: As of 2018 this rock has not been climbed or tested much, so not unlikely if some of it breaks loose. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).


About fifteen feet left (west) from the "practice" anchor (one piton + one old bolt + one newer bolt) on left side of slab with the easier routes ("Chinese Guancho" / "Texas Jug" and "Brazilian Ninja") which is just west from the access scramble down from the north-side parking.

The light-brown Butterflies arete forms the left side of the narrow gully / wide crack of the "Parking Slot" route.

- - > See sector topo Photo
. . . . also left side topo Photo


If Top-Roping from the bolt anchor for the climb to the right of this, need to supplement with Trad directional (perhaps sling around horn?) to protect against a falling climber swinging sideway and hitting a protruding rock.
Or perhaps better to construct a natural anchor which is more above this arete.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"parking slab" from SW<br>
A - Butterflies Arete<br>
vA - direct start variation<br>
B - Parking Slot<br>
C - Roosterhead Ridge<br>
X - bolt anchors
[Hide Photo] "parking slab" from SW A - Butterflies Arete vA - direct start variation B - Parking Slot C - Roosterhead Ridge X - bolt anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Our local indoor gym sets some very fun moderate-difficulty Arete routes. I always tell people to be sure to climb and enjoy those moderate indoor arete routes, because they'll never find an interesting outdoor arete at a difficulty less than 5.11.
But now I've found this arete of the butterflies.

. (Not at all like l'ArĂȘte des Papillons). Feb 18, 2016