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Routes in Valley Cove

Eagle Cliff T M4-5
Type: Trad, Mixed, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 252 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Feb 17, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Peregrine falcon nesting Details
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

This route was described as a 5.6 rock climb in the 1970s-era Geoff Childs guidebook. It would be an utterly horrible rock climb (even if it weren't closed for peregrine nesting), but it's a fine mixed route on frozen turf, rock, trees, and even a tiny bit of ice. First recorded winter ascent by Ben Townsend and Gilman Coryell, January 24, 2016.

1. Steep turf and moss, a bit of ice, and some tree wrestling lead up the chimney to a nice stance out on the right with a convenient clump of birch trees for an anchor. (M4,115’)

2. Dry-tool over a steep bulge and enter a long, occasionally tight chimney system. Pick any of several reasonable belay stances. (M5, 115-160’ depending on where you choose to belay)

3. More awkward dry-tooling and turf bulges (note the antique rappel anchor on the right, consisting of a moss-covered cord around a block) lead to a couple of short ice climbing sections and vigorous tree wrestling, emerging on open ledges with oak trees. (M4-5, 120’)

4. Up the oak ledges past short steps of easy ice climbing. (4th, 150’)

Bushwhack up to the trail, bearing left when in doubt. At one point, a seemingly unclimbable headwall is breached by a slightly hidden slot on the left; the trail is a short distance above. Follow the trail left and down, reaching the fire road within a few yards of the parking lot.

Location

The route starts only about 50’ above the trail, in an obvious tree-filled chimney just to the right of the center of the cliff.

Protection

Full rock rack with pins, a couple of stubby screws, lots of long slings. A Spectre is nice, but not critical.

Photos

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