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Junk On the Trunk

5.10+, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
FA: Steve Weyand & Jadian
California > Northeast Calif… > Redding Area > Burney Limeston… > Pachyderm Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description

This route begins at the base of what resembles an elephants trunk from the buttresses profile. Begin up some well protected initial slabby moves with good holds and plenty of friction and sharp limestone features. The crux is moving up and over a small roof by using a right side pull and and left foot high step and reaching blindly for a large right hand rail. There is a solid bolt under the roof and you can clip the bolt above the roof prior to making the move. Continue to move out right for a bit then back left into a small alcove/dirt filled dihedral with easy moves to the anchor.

Location

This route is located on the Pachyderm Buttress, right of the main Pachyderm/Sunshine Wall.

Follow directions for accessing the Pachyderm Wall approach. Once at the bottom of the main Pachyderm wall, look right to find the Pachyderm Buttress.

This route is fixed with lower offs for TR and or lowering after lead.

Protection

Route requires a total of 10 quickdraws.

Due to the friable nature of this particular rock formation and the fact it will need to see several more ascents to get it clean, the FA party opted to bolt the upper portion of the climb, rather than set trad gear, due to poor quality rock in the alcove/dihedral.

Well protected with a total of:
10- 4" x 1/2" stainless glue-in Wave Bolts set with Red head A7 epoxy.

The anchor consists of:
2- 1/2" X 4" Plated Powers 5 piece bolts with plated 1/2" Fixe hangers with Maillons and snap links for the lower off.

If setting a top rope, the easiest and safest access when facing the route: move up and to the climbers right, following a faint trail and scramble up the the top of the buttress. Locate a higher anchor with a fixed static line. The line is attached to 2 solid 1/2" bolts/anchor. Rappel a 15 foot rope that is fixed to the route and set the TR. You can also, if the fixed line is missing, rap with your rope to the actual anchor for the climb. Beware of loose rock!!

CAREFUL OF LOOSE ROCK!!!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Profile of the Pachyderm Buttress
[Hide Photo] Profile of the Pachyderm Buttress
Topo of Junk on the Trunk
[Hide Photo] Topo of Junk on the Trunk
Working my way up Junk on the Trunk.
[Hide Photo] Working my way up Junk on the Trunk.
Amy making a high step into the upper dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Amy making a high step into the upper dihedral.
Jadian cleaning the junk off the trunk. This was one dirty elephant trunk!!!!!
[Hide Photo] Jadian cleaning the junk off the trunk. This was one dirty elephant trunk!!!!!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Muscrat

  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Very fun line in a new area! YEAH Steve!! Hard to tell the grade, needs more ascents and some consensus. 10+ is about right, very well bolted. Be confident at the grade, a fall would be gritty road rash. Feb 17, 2016
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this new line, it's nice having a route that is a little longer than most of the routes in the main area. As a new lead climber this was the hardest grade I have attempted on lead and every time I felt like I needed a bolt, there it was. Definitely going to keep coming back to this one! Feb 21, 2016
Kyle Sherby
Redding, CA
 
[Hide Comment] good lead for those aspiring at the grade. Bolts well placed and pretty clean for a new route. A bit of poison oak as of today at the base. Jun 6, 2018
Brian Cooper
Northern California
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Very fun route, but the approach and base is kind of a mess of poison oak. Apr 21, 2020
Jared Mominee
Mount Shasta, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.10s at the shredding!
Unfortunately, it is often overlooked because of the separate approach and the popularity of the main areas.
The approach trail seems to have improved and there is no longer poison oak at the base.

Heads up after the roof, there is a loose section up and right that can lead to rock being pulled out onto others below (seen it happen twice now).
That being said, however, the rest of the route is clean and is well protected so don’t let that deter you... Get on this thing! Feb 10, 2021