Junk On the Trunk
5.10+,
Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 9
votes
FA: Steve Weyand & Jadian
California
> Northeast Calif…
> Redding Area
> Burney Limeston…
> Pachyderm Buttress
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.
Description
This route begins at the base of what resembles an elephants trunk from the buttresses profile. Begin up some well protected initial slabby moves with good holds and plenty of friction and sharp limestone features. The crux is moving up and over a small roof by using a right side pull and and left foot high step and reaching blindly for a large right hand rail. There is a solid bolt under the roof and you can clip the bolt above the roof prior to making the move. Continue to move out right for a bit then back left into a small alcove/dirt filled dihedral with easy moves to the anchor.
Location
This route is located on the Pachyderm Buttress, right of the main Pachyderm/Sunshine Wall.
Follow directions for accessing the Pachyderm Wall approach. Once at the bottom of the main Pachyderm wall, look right to find the Pachyderm Buttress.
This route is fixed with lower offs for TR and or lowering after lead.
Protection
Route requires a total of 10 quickdraws.
Due to the friable nature of this particular rock formation and the fact it will need to see several more ascents to get it clean, the FA party opted to bolt the upper portion of the climb, rather than set trad gear, due to poor quality rock in the alcove/dihedral.
Well protected with a total of:
10- 4" x 1/2" stainless glue-in Wave Bolts set with Red head A7 epoxy.
The anchor consists of:
2- 1/2" X 4" Plated Powers 5 piece bolts with plated 1/2" Fixe hangers with Maillons and snap links for the lower off.
If setting a top rope, the easiest and safest access when facing the route: move up and to the climbers right, following a faint trail and scramble up the the top of the buttress. Locate a higher anchor with a fixed static line. The line is attached to 2 solid 1/2" bolts/anchor. Rappel a 15 foot rope that is fixed to the route and set the TR. You can also, if the fixed line is missing, rap with your rope to the actual anchor for the climb. Beware of loose rock!!
CAREFUL OF LOOSE ROCK!!!!
[Hide Photo] Jadian cleaning the junk off the trunk. This was one dirty elephant trunk!!!!!
Redding, CA
Northern California
Mount Shasta, CA
Unfortunately, it is often overlooked because of the separate approach and the popularity of the main areas.
The approach trail seems to have improved and there is no longer poison oak at the base.
Heads up after the roof, there is a loose section up and right that can lead to rock being pulled out onto others below (seen it happen twice now).
That being said, however, the rest of the route is clean and is well protected so don’t let that deter you... Get on this thing! Feb 10, 2021