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Routes in Pachyderm Buttress

Junk On the Trunk S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Steve Weyand & Jadian
Page Views: 301 total · 12/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on Feb 16, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route begins at the base of what resembles an elephants trunk from the buttresses profile. Begin up some well protected initial slabby moves with good holds and plenty of friction and sharp limestone features. The crux is moving up and over a small roof by using a right side pull and and left foot high step and reaching blindly for a large right hand rail. There is a solid bolt under the roof and you can clip the bolt above the roof prior to making the move. Continue to move out right for a bit then back left into a small alcove/dirt filled dihedral with easy moves to the anchor.


This route is located on the Pachyderm Buttress, right of the main Pachyderm/Sunshine Wall.

Follow directions for accessing the Pachyderm Wall approach. Once at the bottom of the main Pachyderm wall, look right to find the Pachyderm Buttress.

This route is fixed with lower offs for TR and or lowering after lead.


Route requires a total of 10 quickdraws.

Due to the friable nature of this particular rock formation and the fact it will need to see several more ascents to get it clean, the FA party opted to bolt the upper portion of the climb, rather than set trad gear, due to poor quality rock in the alcove/dihedral.

Well protected with a total of:
10- 4" x 1/2" stainless glue-in Wave Bolts set with Red head A7 epoxy.

The anchor consists of:
2- 1/2" X 4" Plated Powers 5 piece bolts with plated 1/2" Fixe hangers with Maillons and snap links for the lower off.

If setting a top rope, the easiest and safest access when facing the route: move up and to the climbers right, following a faint trail and scramble up the the top of the buttress. Locate a higher anchor with a fixed static line. The line is attached to 2 solid 1/2" bolts/anchor. Rappel a 15 foot rope that is fixed to the route and set the TR. You can also, if the fixed line is missing, rap with your rope to the actual anchor for the climb. Beware of loose rock!!




Very fun line in a new area! YEAH Steve!! Hard to tell the grade, needs more ascents and some consensus. 10+ is about right, very well bolted. Be confident at the grade, a fall would be gritty road rash. Feb 17, 2016
Really enjoyed this new line, it's nice having a route that is a little longer than most of the routes in the main area. As a new lead climber this was the hardest grade I have attempted on lead and every time I felt like I needed a bolt, there it was. Definitely going to keep coming back to this one! Feb 21, 2016

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