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Routes in Mendenhall Towers

5th Element - Fifth Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Balancing Act - West Tower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fogels-Visscher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Great White Conqueror T AI4 M5+ A1
Iron Curtian T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sixth Sense - Sixth Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solva Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Buttress - Main Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,067 total · 33/month
Shared By: gabe hayden on Feb 15, 2016
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Approach: Start on glacier directly below lower climber's left corner of triangular snowfield.

Terrain is predominantly 4th class, with occasional lower 5th class. Several route variations are possible, described below is the route I felt to be safe and straightforward in summer 2015.

Climb short right facing gully off glacier to the bench below the snowfield. Skirt climber's right hand side of snowfield to point where the snowfield meets the steeper terrain. Climb to the first left-traversing ledge system above the snowfield and follow the ledges left. Ledge system ends to the climber's right of the deep gulley. Climb up from the ledge system to the ridgeline, trending left with the gulley while staying out of the rockfall zone in the actual gulley. There is a fair amount of loose rock above the gulley, so the gulley itself is best avoided. There are several viable routes through this terrain.

Gain ridgeline and follow to main tower summit through a couple 5th class steps, never straying far from ridgeline proper.

Descend Route.


Standard alpine rack



More About Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower