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South Ridge
4th Mod. Snow,
Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft (1364 m), Grade III,
Avg: 2.8 from 12
votes
FA: Ray Farmer and E.C. Cross 8/12/1988
Oregon
> Oregon Volcanoes
> (B) Mt Jefferson
Description
A long moderate route better done with snow.
The crux is climbing the summit pinnacle from the Red Saddle.
Can be done in a long day but most people will want to take two.
Location
South Ridge is approached from Pamelia Lake and the PCT.
Route 126 through Detroit, turn left onto Pamelia Lake road. Entry permit required for Pamelia Lake.
From the Pamelia Lake th., follow the good signed trail to the PCT. Turn right on the PCT and hike another
2.5+/- miles to Mud Lake. Several small lakes here. Leave the PCT and hike cross-country in a northerly direction to the saddle, between Goat Peak and Mount Jefferson. Goat Peak is on your right.
Protection
Helmet, crampons, axe, and rope for the summit pinnacle traverse. In late season this can be soloed with no snow.
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From the Northeast
Quality rock moves on the summit. The direct route up the arete has some great 5.8 pulls on it. Depending on the conditions some mixed ice/rock moves may be necessary. See the rap beta on the Jefferson main page. Bring some extra cord to replace the tats. Jul 3, 2023