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Routes in Mendenhall Towers

5th Element - Fifth Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Balancing Act - West Tower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fogels-Visscher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Great White Conqueror T AI4 M5+ A1
Iron Curtian T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sixth Sense - Sixth Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solva Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Buttress - Main Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Svenson
Page Views: 2,131 total · 63/month
Shared By: gabe hayden on Feb 14, 2016
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Approach: Start at base of south facing buttress on the Main Tower (3rd Tower).

P1: Cross schrund where allowable and climb 5th class to gain 4th class terrain below prominent left facing corner on south buttress.
P2: 4th class terrain to base of left facing corner below headwall.
P3: Climb left facing corner up to left trending ramp/traverse that accesses pillar at base of main headwall. Belay at notch in pillar at the end of the traverse. 10a moves towards top of corner to gain traverse.
P4: Short pitch up 5.8 handcrack in flare to gain top of pillar.
P5: 1st Headwall pitch. Climb obvious 5.8/9 finger cracks from top of pillar to the next ledge.
P6: Climb obvious 5.8/9 hand crack through a small roof, follow slightly left-trending cracks to a large ledge on the left side of the headwall.
P7: Short 5.7 pitch up left facing corner to gain top of headwall and the ridgeline leading to the summit.
Continue climbing approximately 500 ft along ridgeline up 4th and 5th class terrain to summit.

Descend mountaineer’s route – Follow western ridgeline down to top of prominent gully, rappel gulley or face to skiers left of gully to the triangle snowfield. Descent snowfield to final ledge. Rappel down gully at the lower skier’s left edge of snowfield to the glacier.

Can't recommend this route strongly enough. Pitches 4-7 are as much fun as can be had at the grade in a beautiful position.

Protection

standard alpine rack, climb and descent go clean.

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