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Routes in Browns Island

Anglers Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hook Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No strings attached S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Arm Eradicator S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spinner Bait S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thriller on the Pillar S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throw Mama into the Train S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ed Wade
Page Views: 111 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ed Wade on Feb 14, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This climb is the arete to the left of No Strings Attached. There is a ledge about 15 ft up that traverses across the south face of the south pillar. You start this climb on the east face and move up and left to access the ledge. Take a breather before you move straight up the outside corner. This climb is a little spicy near the top. There are small metal pieces that stick out of the mortar and stone that you can hook with a wired stopper if you feel the need to hang on the rope between the bolts. That's how I bolted this climb on lead. Don't think I would want to whip on them though. Definitely an exciting climb.

Location

Starts on the east face of the south pillar and heads up and left to the outside corner.

Protection

All bolts. Maybe bring some wired stoppers with the wire looped out a little from the metal stopper, just in case. Not sure about an anchor but there is an anchor of some sort above No Strings just a few feet to the right.

Photos

Joe Gillette
Fayetteville, WV
Joe Gillette   Fayetteville, WV
Cool route! Spicy at the top but a good change of perspective from Manchester vantage point, would not want to take a winger on the last two bolts (rusty). 7 bolts in total. Props to Ed for hanging on those wires when putting this thing up. Nov 9, 2016