Window on the West
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Southern Pillar
|Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Andy Weinmann & Kelly Baumgartner - AUG 2015|
|Page Views:||171 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Weinmann on Feb 10, 2016|
|Admins:||Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionSurprisingly good route we found inside the Great Chimney on the right wall. Note the Location section for different ways to get to this area.
Climb Great Chimney past the two trees in the dirt slope to a two-bolt ring anchor on the right wall, at a stance just below a double-forked tree. Climb past the trees (between or on the wall-side to help with drag) and move up the dirt slope to a small ledge on the right wall, below an obvious clean left-facing corner about 20' up with a crack in the back. Make a few nice committing moves up the face to gain the corner. Pull up into the overhanging crack. Follow the crack until you can traverse right across a nice horizontal crack and get into another large crack. Follow this to the top and a two-bolt ring anchor at the "window" looking west towards town.
After the overhang it backs off to 5.6/7 climbing.
Considering a "first known ascent" as we found no evidence of previous ascents. However, given it's proximity to Great Chimney, Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem and Gephardt-Dufty it's surprising that it was not previously entered.
Combined with the anchors atop Hidden Gem/Craving for Pink (which need to be replaced), the anchors we installed provide a good descent route for Gephardt-Dufty.
LocationTwo ways to get there: Climb Great Chimney as mentioned above (can be a scary, run-out, leaf-filled undertaking...don't take it lightly) OR climb Gephardt-Dufty to the top of the 3rd pitch. Just before the final pitch headwall, look left and down to find the huge block with a two-bolt ring anchor (fairly large pine tree nearby that leans over the Great Chimney). Rap down from this point and you'll be at the base.
You could also top out Gephardt-Dufty, rap from the anchors atop Hidden Gem/Craving for Pink and then end up at the two-bolt anchor on a block.