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Routes in Southern Pillar

Ambush T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Appendicitis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bizarre Grandiose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Block Party T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climbin' Punishment T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Craving fo Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Daytripper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Death March T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Chair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gebhardt-Duffy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Judgement Seat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemur, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Point Man T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quit Dogging the Scene T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rhododendron Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Tope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Rock T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roy Gap Chimney's T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slipstream T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stoney's T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up Yours S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Victim, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Andy Weinmann & Kelly Baumgartner - AUG 2015
Page Views: 171 total, 8/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Feb 10, 2016
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Surprisingly good route we found inside the Great Chimney on the right wall. Note the Location section for different ways to get to this area.

Climb Great Chimney past the two trees in the dirt slope to a two-bolt ring anchor on the right wall, at a stance just below a double-forked tree. Climb past the trees (between or on the wall-side to help with drag) and move up the dirt slope to a small ledge on the right wall, below an obvious clean left-facing corner about 20' up with a crack in the back. Make a few nice committing moves up the face to gain the corner. Pull up into the overhanging crack. Follow the crack until you can traverse right across a nice horizontal crack and get into another large crack. Follow this to the top and a two-bolt ring anchor at the "window" looking west towards town.

After the overhang it backs off to 5.6/7 climbing.

Considering a "first known ascent" as we found no evidence of previous ascents. However, given it's proximity to Great Chimney, Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem and Gephardt-Dufty it's surprising that it was not previously entered.

Combined with the anchors atop Hidden Gem/Craving for Pink (which need to be replaced), the anchors we installed provide a good descent route for Gephardt-Dufty.

Location

Two ways to get there: Climb Great Chimney as mentioned above (can be a scary, run-out, leaf-filled undertaking...don't take it lightly) OR climb Gephardt-Dufty to the top of the 3rd pitch. Just before the final pitch headwall, look left and down to find the huge block with a two-bolt ring anchor (fairly large pine tree nearby that leans over the Great Chimney). Rap down from this point and you'll be at the base.

You could also top out Gephardt-Dufty, rap from the anchors atop Hidden Gem/Craving for Pink and then end up at the two-bolt anchor on a block.

Protection

Standard trad rack. A purple master cam size piece (green C3 size) is helpful for the first piece or two. A #4 cam is nice to have up top in the wider section but not required.

Photos

K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Nice line that grabs your attention off the ground to gain the first ledge. The rest is pure fun. Feb 23, 2016