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Epitaph

5.12c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Erik Jenson
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > Bat Wall

Description

An excellent new route on the Bat Wall. Epitaph opens with a rad problem ~V6 that involves catching sloping rails with marginal feet. The second crux offers long lock-offs off good crimps. A final slab with small edges protects the anchors. The three sections are separated by good rests. This climb is well worth the approach.

Starts with a shallow left hand pocket and right sloper.

Location

This route starts on the upper right section of the of the Bat Wall. This climb can be approached by climbing up and past the second pitch of Superstition. A 2" cam can be used to protect a small run out. The climb starts on a large ledge.

Protection

5 bolts + anchors with rap rings. Stainless steel. A 70M rope will get you to the ground with rope stretch using the LOWER ANCHORS.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo
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Colin enjoying the view from ledge.
[Hide Photo] Colin enjoying the view from ledge.
No topo
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Charlie Egan
St George, UT
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] This route is awesome. The powerful moves and exposed position are well worth the effort to get up there. I hope it sees some more attention. May 7, 2017
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] Its very easy to climb to the lost boys anchor and then romp up some 5.5 terrain with tightly spaced bolts to the Epitaph anchor.
While the rock is grippy and textured, its not quite as nice as the MFR headwall by any means.
This is a perfect climb for a crisp sunny day- its like 10 degrees warmer up there than at the shady base of the cliff.
It's VERY difficult for 12c; so if your going to take the time, hopefully that's a grade you can send in a few attempts or less, cause its kinda a chore to get back up there. Jan 23, 2021
Greg Lee
 
[Hide Comment] I wasn't a huge fan of this climb. Yes, the position is good, but the climbing didn't flow. For me, there were a couple sections of 2-3 fun moves, separated by awkward, pseudo-jug climbing. Also, the left dihedral is always tempting, especially near the top, and never pleasant. The opening boulder was the best part, with a couple of interesting deadpoints. I probably won't be back to attempt a send. Jan 23, 2021