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Montana
> Southwest Region
> Madison River Area
> Neat Rock Area
> Neat Rock Main Formation
Sunny Butterflies
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British V1 YDS 5 Font PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Neat Rock Main Formation
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Cracker Barrel T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Donkey Punch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pinnacle Toprope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pinnacle Toprope (South face) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock Lobster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Standard Direct finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Standard Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Steel Drivin' Man T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sunny Butterflies T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V1 5 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Boulder, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Clark Alexis, Tom Jüngst and Tom Kalakay 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,189 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Bachen on Feb 7, 2016 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
An interesting and somewhat serious route with ground fall potential. It is more of a highball boulder problem, then a short 5.8 trad climb, separated by a ledge.
Climb diagonally left up a somewhat slopey rail to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few, if any, options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge, plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake, then move into the corner/roof and climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right, or continue to the other routes above.
Climb diagonally left up a somewhat slopey rail to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few, if any, options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge, plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake, then move into the corner/roof and climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right, or continue to the other routes above.
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