Type: Trad, Boulder, 50 ft
FA: Clark Alexis, Tom J├╝ngst and Tom Kalakay 1984
Page Views: 497 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dan Bachen on Feb 7, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

An interesting and somewhat serious route with ground fall potential. It is more of a highball boulder problem, then a short 5.8 trad climb, separated by a ledge.

Climb diagonally left up a somewhat slopey rail to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few, if any, options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge, plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake, then move into the corner/roof and climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right, or continue to the other routes above.

Location

Just left of the access gully for the pillar, look for the single bolt and roof crack

Protection

1 bolt, a small cam for the ledge (yellow TCU), a few hand sized pieces for the upper corner and crack. A horizontal takes small to medium cams and nuts for the anchor.

Photos