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Routes in Neat Rock

Bobby Dazzla V7 7A+
Digby the Dangerous V7 7A+
Pinnacle Toprope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinnacle Toprope (South face) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Lobster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Direct finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Standard Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunny Butterflies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V1 5 PG13
Tweedle Dee V5 6C
Tweedle Dum V3 6A
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 50 ft
FA: Clark Alexis, Tom Jüngst and Tom Kalakay 1984
Page Views: 254 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dan Bachen on Feb 7, 2016
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

An interesting and somewhat serious route with ground fall potential. It is more of a highball V2 boulder problem and a short 5.8 trad climb separated by a ledge.

Climb diagonally left through slopers to the single bolt. Move up into underclings then climb to the ledge on good edges. Aside from the lone bolt there are few if any options to protect this lower section. A fall on the last moves would result in cratering from 25-30 feet up, but the holds are good. After gaining the ledge plug a small cam behind a flake, mantle the flake then move into the corner/ roof, climb the crack to the top. Belay on the large ledge. Either walk off right or continue to the other routes above.

Location

Just left of the access gully for the pillar, look for the single bolt and roof crack

Protection

1 bolt, a small cam for the ledge (yellow TCU), a few hand sized pieces for the upper corner and crack. A horizontal takes small to medium cams and nuts for the anchor.

Photos

Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
FA is listed in the Dockins' guide as Clark Alexis, Tom Jüngst and Tom Kalakay in 1984. I'm not sure Tom or Clark could figure out who climbed it first. I think Clark (I was one of his roommates in the early 80's) had named it Sunshine Daydream or some such and Tom called it Butterflies. They compromised on the name and who did what first. Fun times! Oct 14, 2017