Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Nate Sydnor & Coleman Blakeslee
Page Views: 545 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Feb 7, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Although it's on the shorter side, I'm gonna toss it out there that this may be one of the finest finger cracks in the Moab area. I was amazed to find it unclimbed. I attempted it once, on-sight from the ground, and was able to pull it off my 2nd try a few weeks later, also ground-up. For strong finger crack climbers it would certainly make a reasonable on-sight. I made a plaque, but left off the "+" just in case I was super-psyched and it turns out that others think it's easier. Feedback encouraged.

Location

On the West Face, only about 100 yards away from the Tombstone. Look for the obvious splitter in the scoop.

Protection

I used, in order, .75, #4 in an obvious box, 000c3, 00c3, 0c3, green Alien, .3, 3 or 4 .4s in a row, another .3, and a red Alien - There is no anchor. There is an easy scramble to the top, from the left, which can be used to pre-set an anchor. I lowered a loop once on top and hauled up an old #4, new #5, a 1 and a 2. Please do not add bolts for an anchor, and do not top-rope this route with the rope running over the edge! The rock is soft and won't tolerate much wear.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
I knew this one would b rad! Nice job Feb 8, 2016