Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Lee Soares
Page Views: 530 total · 15/month
Shared By: Joe M. on Feb 3, 2016
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Might be the hardest slab at Lincoln Woods. Climb the slab to the right of Heart of Glass following the left side of the slab. Was originally done with a multiple pad stack, I think Dave Graham may have done it off of one pad.

Location

Just right of Heart of Glass, #3 on the beta topo

Protection

pads

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Nice job ! I remember trying this one with a "push" start..still couldn't do it. Feb 4, 2016
Joe M.

  V8
Joe M.    
  V8
I think I tried it from like a six pad start and couldn't do it. Not sure how few pads were finally used to send it but I remember Lee kept working on it with less and less pads. Feb 4, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ha! I remember trying this and wondering how he started. I though if I could just get off the ground it didn't look too bad. I'll have to go back and check if I was dreaming. If john couldn't do it, I probably was. Feb 4, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8-
This climb is really cool. The rock quality is outstanding and the holds are really unique.

Unfortunately, the crux move is pulling off the ground and you need to stack pads to reach the starting holds, so the difficulty can be noticeably altered by how many pads you stack. But, how few pads you can do it with depends greatly on your height and wingspan. I did it with the fewest number that I could use and still BARELY reach the starting holds. I was incredibly spanned out, standing on my tip toes, and I had to turn my head so that I could be completely flush against the rock.

For me, probably somewhere in the v7+/8- range. I'll say soft v8. Anyhow, it's too bad about the weird stacking pads bit because the rock on this climb is to die for and representative of the best rock that LW can offer. If you didn't have to do the stacked pad start, I would give this 3 or 4 stars easily.

For clarification, the starting holds are the high left hand sloper and whatever sidepull out right you can reach. I used the lower slot sidepull because that's all I could reach. Nov 1, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8-
Footage of this climb begins at 7:48

vimeo.com/193064839 Nov 25, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Another great video Christian, thanks. Nov 30, 2016
Read Januskiewiecz
New England
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
Got on this today and was able to do the start from two organic pads and a really thin metolius chaser pad. It climbs really well if you can span the start holds to get on. Nov 11, 2017