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Butt Buster

V5, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
FA: John "Whitey" McLean, mid 1990s
Rhode Island > Lincoln Woods > Sit Down area /… > Pedestal Boulder

Description

Start sitting at obvious prow (steepest point on this side of the boulder) and traverse the lowest hand holds to the left. Continue low around the corner and make a shouldery move up the crack on the face to left and top out. Somewhat dabby but fun. Also know as Butt Bouncer, as this is what can happen if fall off.

Location

#14 on the beta topo

Protection

pads

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Correct line for Butt Buster
[Hide Photo] Correct line for Butt Buster

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe M
MA and NH
  V5
[Hide Comment] Hmm, that is not the line of Butt Buster (or Bouncer). It stays low until the seam on the left... Also, starts farther to the right. May 4, 2021
Joe M
MA and NH
  V5
[Hide Comment] I think maybe these should be listed as two separate problems. They are quite different. May 5, 2021
Regina Madden
Providence, RI
[Hide Comment] Hey Joe,

So Butt Bouncer isn't on MP but i checked on GunksApp and the topo shows that it starts matched from where your right hand is in the pic on here, and then follows up the rest the same way as Butt Buster. So comparing the topos it looks like Butt Buster is the same problem but starts further right around the arete than Butt Bouncer. Which is fine if that's what it is, but Butt Bouncer on Gunks is listed as V5 and this is V4; if the topo/descriptions are accurate, the latter appears to be an extension if the former, and therefore doesn't make sense that the shorter route is the harder one. Can you please clarify the beta for each? No rush on responding cause I'm not getting back there for a while lol Jan 11, 2023
Joe M
MA and NH
  V5
[Hide Comment] Regina, that is interesting that GunksApp has it harder for the shorter version. I personally think the full version is V5 but it seems like others think differently. Obviously, starting closer to the end should be at least the same grade or easier. The crux of both versions is definitely the shouldery move at the end so maybe they could be the same grade? Jan 11, 2023
Dana Seaton
Rhode Island
[Hide Comment] Happy to change either, if the consensous thinks it is warranted, the App is not a fixed entity. Most of the copy on the app is what Andrew and I wrote for the now defunct Lincolnwoodsbouldering.com, so it has been out there for a while. I am always open to a conversation about updates.

Also grades tend to be the suggestion for the average climber in terms of height and ability. People on the polar ends of height and reach may find certain problems to be easier or harder, due to how their bodies fit into the given features of a route. At best they should be taken as a suggestion and not gospel. Jan 15, 2023
Joe M
MA and NH
  V5
[Hide Comment] Dana, in general, I agree with you about the vagaries of ratings. However, in this case, I think some of the ratings here are based on a previous, poor description of the problem (my bad). I think some of the lower ratings went up the arete before getting to the shoulder move. For me, the crux shoulder move is in the V5 range from either start. Jan 16, 2023
Regina Madden
Providence, RI
[Hide Comment] Would it be beneficial to add Butt Bouncer to MP so that people on both apps are aware they are two separate lines and people that don't have Gunks can find out about the other climb? I have the GunksApp and I'm going there tomorrow and going to try both. Jan 27, 2023
[Hide Comment] I need to explain my grading so folks don’t think I’m trying to inflate it. The route feels v3-4 until the last move. The dab potential is so high and the powerful shouldery move at the end is the crux after a long route. For me, I’m just too short to hit the huge high gaston with my left from the low jug, so I hit this super small slot with my left as an intermediate, snuck a high right foot, then did a shoulder crunching cross to land my right hand on the final sidepull. The single move felt almost v8, so heck, V7 for me it is. Feb 12, 2023