Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nate Sydnor and Arturo Ceron
Page Views: 650 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Feb 1, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

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I spotted this thing on a rest day in Nipponino, and it was amazing to find that it had not been done. The first two pitches will likely always be a bit wet, but the free climbing is not unreasonable. We cleaned off the only obvious loose blocks, but care should still be taken, as things change here from season to season and the zone is very geologically "active". We believe that the second pitch is the crux, with challenging climbing in a thin seam that is damp/wet for the first 10 meters. Somewhat committing, but again, not unreasonable. Both the first and second pitches were led with some aid/cleaning, and followed free, on-sight.

I had to fly home a day later, so the route awaits a true free ascent, and the grade is only an estimate. The rest of the route is relatively cruiser, never harder than 5.10, and we simul-climbed the last 100 meters to the top. There is a definitive summit, with amazing views of the seracs and glacier above, and the Fitzroy Range across the way. All rappel anchors are in place, with two solid stoppers and/or hexes at every stance. Most rappels are approximately 50m, with one short exception. Unlike many anchors in the area, we did not leave a single carabiner to rappel from. Instead, we equalized a solid, redundant master-point and rappelled directly from two strands of cord, taking care to pull slowly. Future parties may end up placing biners if desired. This was an amazing honeymoon, and I named the route in honor of that!


The formation just left of El Mochito, which my Spanish partner dubbed El Pequeño Mochito. Obvious crack line splitting the center of the formation, visible from Niponino.


Doubles from tiny c3 to 3, single 4, stoppers and rps