La Luna de Miel
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Nate Sydnor and Arturo Ceron|
|Page Views:||468 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Sydnor on Feb 1, 2016|
|Admins:||Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
DescriptionIt was amazing to find this route undone. The first two pitches will likely always be a bit wet, but the free climbing is not unreasonable. We cleaned off the only obvious loose blocks, but care should still be taken, as things seem to change here from season to season. We believe that the second pitch is the crux, with challenging climbing in a thin seam that is damp/wet for the first 10 meters. Somewhat committing, but again, not unreasonable. Both the first and second pitches were led with some aid/cleaning, and followed free, on-sight.
I had to fly home a day later, so the route awaits a true free ascent, and the grade is only an estimate. The rest of the route is relatively cruiser, never harder than 5.10, and we simul-climbed the last 100 meters to the top. There is a definitive summit, with amazing views of the seracs and glacier above, and the Fitzroy Range across the way. All rappel anchors are in place, with two solid stoppers and/or hexes at every stance. Most rappels are approximately 50m, with one short exception. Unlike many anchors in the area, we did not leave a single carabiner to rappel from. Instead, we equalized a solid mater-point, and rappelled directly from two strands of cord, taking care to pull slowly. Future parties may end up placing biners if desired. This was an amazing honeymoon, and I named the route in honor of that!