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Routes in Chalten Massif

Afannassief T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Austríaca T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow
Brenner-Moschioni to Comesana-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cara Este - Mojón Rojo T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Chiaro di Luna (Claro de Luna) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comesaña-Fonrouge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Easy Snow
East Face Glacier - Cerro Eléctrico T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Frader Pisafe, aka Salvaterra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Granja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Easy Snow
La Luna de Miel T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Last Gringos Standing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Supercanaleta T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M5-6 Steep Snow PG13
Voie Des Benitiers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1
Whillans-Cochrane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M4
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nate Sydnor and Arturo Ceron
Page Views: 588 total · 18/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Feb 1, 2016
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

I spotted this thing on a rest day in Nipponino, and it was amazing to find that it had not been done. The first two pitches will likely always be a bit wet, but the free climbing is not unreasonable. We cleaned off the only obvious loose blocks, but care should still be taken, as things change here from season to season and the zone is very geologically "active". We believe that the second pitch is the crux, with challenging climbing in a thin seam that is damp/wet for the first 10 meters. Somewhat committing, but again, not unreasonable. Both the first and second pitches were led with some aid/cleaning, and followed free, on-sight.

I had to fly home a day later, so the route awaits a true free ascent, and the grade is only an estimate. The rest of the route is relatively cruiser, never harder than 5.10, and we simul-climbed the last 100 meters to the top. There is a definitive summit, with amazing views of the seracs and glacier above, and the Fitzroy Range across the way. All rappel anchors are in place, with two solid stoppers and/or hexes at every stance. Most rappels are approximately 50m, with one short exception. Unlike many anchors in the area, we did not leave a single carabiner to rappel from. Instead, we equalized a solid, redundant master-point and rappelled directly from two strands of cord, taking care to pull slowly. Future parties may end up placing biners if desired. This was an amazing honeymoon, and I named the route in honor of that!

Location

The formation just left of El Mochito, which my Spanish partner dubbed El Pequeño Mochito. Obvious crack line splitting the center of the formation, visible from Niponino.

Protection

Doubles from tiny c3 to 3, single 4, stoppers and rps

Photos

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