Eyes of Buddha
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Hidden Tower
|Baptistina S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Concealed Crustose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Cryptonomicon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Dirty Little Secret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Dissimulation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Double-Blind Study S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Eyes of Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Feeling the Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Gnosis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Lost in Tuff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Out of Sight S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Plague of Pestilence S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Positive Aspect of Negative Thinking, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Recondite Rhyolite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Rubbing Elbows with the Lumpenproletariat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Transmogrifier S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Turkey Bacon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Unconchas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft|
|FA:||Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz - January 2016|
|Page Views:||305 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Jan 30, 2016|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis line tackles a bouldery crux at a bulge between enjoyable, less difficult climbing to a higher point than other routes on this wall. Climb the lower part of either Feeling the Love or Dissimulation to the anchor at the big ledge.
From the ledge take the bolt line straight up between the upper portions of Feeling the Love and Dissimulation . Slab it up pockets on lower angle rock to a corner where the rock steepens. Pull past a slightly crumbly flake and into a tough couple of moves to awesome, horizontally-opposed round pockets ("The Eyes") at the crux bulge. Pull hard moves on your choice of sharp crimps, marginal pinches and a couple of decent slopers to get your feet above the bulge and into less steep terrain. Easier but slightly awkward and licheny climbing leads past a couple more bolts to the anchors way up there.
LocationClimb the lower part of either Feeling the Love or Dissimulation to the anchor at the big ledge then go straight up between the upper portions of Feeling the Love and Dissimulation
Protection8 bolts from the big ledge to a two-bolt anchor with biners way up high and hidden from below. A 70m rope is required to lower from the top (highest anchors) to the ground.
With a 60m rope, lower to the mid-point anchor on the big ledge, untie, pull the rope and lower from the mid-point anchor.
Two brown cable project draws are on the bolts at the crux for the time being but will come down at some point.