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Routes in Hamilton Dome

North Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Arete Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Subliminal Verses, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 1800 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince
Page Views: 1,143 total, 50/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jan 28, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

AWESOME F**KING ROUTE! IMO better than the South Face of Charlotte Dome as the views are better, the route more sustained and the rock is more solid. Some of the BEST granite in the Sierra!

1) Climb up the low angle 0.75 splitter, place some pro and extend it slightly right of it. Climb to the overhang above and traverse right, placing a few more widgets. Run it out on very solid granite and straight forward climbing to a bolt. Make a belay from small-medium gear. 0.5 (purple) Camalot and smaller with an offset Metolius useful, as I remember. The pitch is a rope stretcher and may involve simul climbing for the follower, if using a 60m rope. If you want, break it into two pitches. 5.8 PG13

2) Climb straight up towards the intimidating roof. From the belay, the terrain looks runout but cracks emerge out of nowhere and allow this pitch to be very well protected. Mostly medium and small gear. The roof is passed on positive holds and also protects VERY well. Take the pitch for full 60 meters to a bolted belay. 5.10 a/b

3) Great pitch that allows a lot of creativity. I did a mix of face and crack climbing up the prominent hand-crack. The cracks vary in size which keeps the things from being repetitive. 60m 5.9

4) Continue climbing up thinner cracks towards another big overhang. Jug haul to the left side of the overhang and climb straight up the moderate but slightly runout face past two bolts. After the second bolt take the way of least resistance up and left. You may be able to sling a chicken head for protection somewhere, if you want. But the climbing, although run out, is very secure and moderate. Belay from natural gear in a good stance. 60 M rope-stretcher. 5.9+

5) From the belay stance climb straight up to the big chicken heads and traverse left towards the thin-looking right facing corner. Sling chicken heads for protection and use tiny gear in the corner. After it comes to an end step right to another right facing corner which accepts medium cams. Belay in it from gear. 45M 5.8

6) Climb up the corner and take the way of least resistance to the giant ledge. 60M 5.8 Belay on gear.

7) From the giant ledge, there are multiple ways to go. I took the prominent mixed hand cracks with face climbing and giant chicken heads in between. 60M to a big ledge. 5.8-9 with easier variations available. Gear or tied chicken heads for belay.

From there, we scrambled another 400 feet to the summit proper. Some 4th to maybe easy 5th class in the hardest section of the scramble. We were in our approach shoes and didn't rope up for it, but it is exposed up there, so be careful. If climbing it in the dark, I'd suggest a rope.

The views towards the Angel Wings, Cherubim Dome and the other rock walls which surround the Hamilton Dome are incredible. Enjoy!

Full report about climbing two new routes on the South Face of Hamilton Dome: vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2…

Location

South Face of the Hamilton Dome. The route takes the central buttress of the South Face. A little further west (down) from the Hamlet Buttress. Look for an obvious low angle splitter crack on the left side of the buttress. That's the start.

To get off the formation, scramble east from the summit, down a step of 4th class and slightly left down a flake. There is a sling around the flake - the first rappell. From there, three more 30 M raps (single 60M rope works fine) take you down into the notch. All rap stations are bomber.

Protection

Mostly protected by natural gear and large chicken heads. Has a bolted belay and a few lead bolts.
Bring a double rack from small to #1 (red) camalot. Single #2 and a #3 although second #2 may be useful. A few small offsets and a set of nuts won't hurt.
I remember those were only for about a few 100ft sections while traversing from the top of the ridge to the opening that led to the saddle. On the way in we somehow avoided most of it, but on the way back, went through a few shitty spots because we didn't want to ascent higher in order to avoid it. Jan 31, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Here's V on the approach we used, pretty much a trail the whole way. spiky balls everywhere? naw not really

Jan 31, 2016
Haha, we did not have to do much bush whacking coming up from the Hamilton Lake camp! It was maybe 1,500 feet of elevation gain with some steep gravel in places. Few sections of bushwhacking, but not bad! Will have to post a map of alternative approaches.

NO IDEA which one is THE BEST way. BUT I think, approaching from Crescent Meadow up the High Sierra trail, than cutting down and north from Bearpaw meadow, than cutting cross-country up Eagle Scout Creek. I heard of one guy from Bearpaw taking that way to scramble around and camp in Eagle Scout Creek, have not done it myself. He said it was not bad at all. Jan 29, 2016
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Where's the approach info? How do I get there easily from the car without walking through any bushes? Jan 29, 2016