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Routes in Lower East Wall

Anonymous, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pokey Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pseudonym T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rockabilly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Trouble Finds Me T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tomasi, Peters
Page Views: 189 total, 9/month
Shared By: sean peters on Jan 28, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

If you decide to start pitch one directly beneath the roof (this will be obvious)--this will be the crux. Our original line began here and almost ended here after the leader took a 25 foot fall and ripped a few pieces of gear. The rock is mediocre as well as the gear so prepare accordingly.

A safer and more sane alternative is to climb the nice looking crack up to the jojoba bush and either belay here (one bolt) or continue the traverse to the two bolted belay further right. The traverse is tricky and the boulder problem finish to the belay keeps your attention. From the two bolt belay head straight up the crack system and eventually angling left (a short section of face) to another nice bolted belay stance. This pitch is just under 100 feet.

The final pitch is the same as Pokey Dance.

The route was climbed from the ground-up over the course of a few weekends after it was spied from climbing the other routes on this formation. We had many debates on the approach regarding route safety, ethics of putting up a route and finally does any of this stuff even matter....

Location

The route is several hundred feet north of Rockabilly and Pockey Dance. At the base of the route there is nice "sundeck boulder" to stash gear and rope-up. You will be able to see the bolt that protects the traverse from the boulder.
You can rappel the route with three single rope rappels back to the sundeck boulder.

Protection

We used nuts and cams from the tiniest to a #5. All the belays are bolted and comfortable and there are three bolts on the route. Out of the three, one can be used as belay for pitch one, one you will be very happy to clip and one is nearing 40 years old.

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