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Routes in The Washboard Area

Blown Away S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brooks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleavage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Trauma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Disco Inferno S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Blink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freefall Cafe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freefall Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gary's Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Grannies Gravy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Resurrection S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spiders From Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warrior Poet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Z Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jer Collins
Page Views: 703 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jer Collins on Jan 24, 2016
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description [Suggest Change]

After a somewhat scabby start this line cleans up after the 2nd bolt . Techy and delicate, it doesn't let up till the chains. Similar in difficulty to Warrior Poet but more sustained.

[also makes for an interesting direct start to WP by stepping right into it at the final crack/bulge]

Location [Suggest Change]

Between Cleavage and Warrior Poet, starting in a left facing white dihedral.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 draws, lower off anchors

Photos

Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.12b
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.12b
This route is brilliant. Pumpy, relentless, and highly sequential. Bring your power endurance and tons of skin as many of the crimps are quite sharp.

BETA ALERT:

BA breaks down like this:
Easy dihedral climbing to a funky clip at the third bolt. I recommend stick clipping the second bolt, as some of the feet low on the route are quite dirty.
3rd bolt: short, crimpy V2/3 boulder problem to exit the dihedral into a good rest and low/mid 5.10 climbing on pockets. Multiple solutions are possible here.
4th-6th bolts: Powerful, pumpy, and sequential V4 boulder problem starting with a massive LH sidepull, continuing on crimps and sloping pockets. Punchy and devious.
7th bolt to anchor: A strenuous, techy traverse on a weird undercling rail leads to a V5 boulder problem that starts off with powerful moves on good holds and ends with a technical, beta intensive sequence on sloping crimps. Gaining a hidden sidepull jug marks the end of the business on this beautiful route. Dec 13, 2017

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