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Stoned Man's Dream

5.8, Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Doug Davis, Jack Carpenter. Chuck ?
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 7 - Upper Highway > Five Mile Wall
Warning Access Issue: Subject to the Bighorn Sheep restriction from January 30-April 1, according to Backcountry Rock Climbing in Southern Arizona DetailsDrop down

Description

Large dihedral on south face.

Location

From old Hut notes: On the left margin of the bald south face, about 150ft left of Town w/o Pity, is a large dihedral 1 pitch up. 1) Scramble up between a large block and the face. Move slightly left to start the right-facing dihedral which runs up to the book. (5.8) 2) 5.8 120ft. Climb the book, belaying at the top. 3) 5.7 150ft. Move right, and then up to a belay near the top. 4) off.

Protection

Lemmon rack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marcy -
Tucson/DMR
 
[Hide Comment] This is a wonderful route! We started behind the block up to a flake and weakness with small cracks for pro and trended right under a roof to the base of the dihedral. I think this is just left of the right facing dihedral in the description. Pitch 2 dihedral is awesome, although a little lichen-y, and protects so very good. Pitch 3 we did in about 100 feet and belayed at an overlap with a great horizontal crack running beneath it. Last pitch continued up slabby overlaps trending right, no great gear for a ways, but the climbing was much more mellow that the preceding pitches. Aug 22, 2018