Ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, Grade III|
|Page Views:||193 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Wolfe on Jan 22, 2016|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThis is a steep, very exposed route with stunning views of the South face of Tofana di Rozes. It is close to Cortina so can be popular. It also offers the options of linking into numerous additional ferrata including a hike to the summit of the largest mountain in the group – Tofana di Mezzo. The route described here ascends about 2500 feet with about 1/2 of it cabled.
The route initially begins on the east face traversing left and upwards for some distance on a new heavy cable. It then wraps around onto the SW face and ends directly up the center of the thin southern arête of Punta Anna. You can’t get lost – it is all cabled since there are essentially no sections without significant exposure.
LocationParking: From Cortina take the road uphill towards Passo Falzarego. Shortly after you pass Pocol you will see a small road going to the right with a sign for Rifugio Dibona. Drive up the road to the Rifugio and part at the large car park there. (There is an alternate way to approach from Cortina via a series of chairlifts but its expensive and still requires a car so why bother).
Approach: From Rifigio Dibona take the path up and RIGHT (path 421) towards Rifugio Pomedes. You will wrap around a steep hill then zig zag up to that Rifugio. From this point, hike up to the top of the chairlift following signs for the Ferrata up the hill and eventually back left towards the cliffs.
Descent: There are multiple options. If you are done, from the summit of Punta Anna traverse left on an occasionally equipped path towards Rifugio Giussani. This path spits you out on a giant scree slope that you traverse and descend to the obvious path below. From that path turn downhill and hike back to Rifugio Dibona and your car. This round trip will take 4-5 hours. An alternative if you have time is to continue up the crest along cables and slabs and pick up the Ferrata Gianni Aglio that leads to the summit of Tofana di Mezzo. This will add a few more hours to the ascent and may require snow gear early in the season. From there you can take a cable car all the way into Cortina or you can reverse your path and hike back down either to the descent above or an alternate path that drops back to Rifugio Pomedes.