Type: Trad, 2100 ft (636 m), Grade III
FA: Done in 1912
Page Views: 748 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Jan 22, 2016
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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This is the oldest Ferrata in the Dolomites – established in 1912. It is approached from the top of Sella pass and climbs up the back side of Piz Ciavazes on the NW face, then traverses north via trails across multiple summits on the western side of the Sella plateau. Eventually the path will wrap back around east, south and finally southwest along the base of the impressive Sass Pordoi west face depositing you back on the road leading up to Passo Sella. While there is some great, steep climbing (with a cable in places), this is more a great hike with stunning views in all directions. It probably takes 5-6 hours depending on how often you stop to gaze around.
The route starts a short distance to the right of the black streak/waterfall described on the approach. Follow the very thin, loose cable up the wall through chimneys (cable gone here – clip the pegs for protection if needed). It wanders up with some traverses generally following the cable up steep rock until you pop out on a large ledge system with a trail. Behind you is a great view of the Sassolungo massif. Walk left on a ledge system then up along this trail picking up another cabled section through gullies and steps on the steep face in the distance. At the end of this cable you will be on the summit of Piz Selva.


Approach: Walk on the well beaten climber/tourist path on the NW side of the pass below Sella tower 2, 3 and 4. Your destination is the obvious black streak (waterfall depending on the weather) coming down the cliff that sits beyond Torre IV. The route starts a short distance to the right of this water streak. It only takes 10-15 minutes to approach this route.
Descent: From the summit of Piz Selva you can remove your climbing gear and prepare for a long but beautiful circular hike around the entire plateau. Follow trail 649 up and down towards the north east until it begins to turn right and descend south east to Forcella Antersase (a pass with multiple trail crossings – pay attention and take the correct path here). At this point, descend right down path 647 dropping down into the Val Lasties along the huge Western face of Sass Pordoi. As you drop down you have two options – you can stay on path 647 and descend to the bar and Rifugio near Pian de Schiavaneis sport climbing area if you have friends to pick you up. Otherwise take path 656 traversing below the Piz Ciavazes south eastern side, eventually coming out at the road. Hike up the road for a few miles or try to catch a ride hitch hiking back to Passo Sella and your car.


Helmet, gloves, Harness, Ferrata rigging