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Routes in Sun Wall

Sunburst S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Ohran
Page Views: 475 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Jan 22, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions In Place and Closures Scheduled for 8:00AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

This is a great route on awesome rock. The route climbs up a lower angled easy broken dihedral for the first half of the climb then when the angle kicks back it follows an awesome double tufa feature for a few bolts before the main tufas disappear and you face a couple of crimpy technical cruxes with good holds in between for the last three or so bolts to the chains.

Location [Edit]

This is the second to furthest right route on the wall and shares the start with the furthest right route on the wall. from the base of Sun Dog, where the wall seems to end, look across the slab to your right about 20 feet and you'll see the line of bolts starting up the slab. Traverse across the slab and belay from the first bolt to ensure that you can get all the way to the ground from the anchors with a 60 meter rope. You may be able to belay from below the slab with a 70, but I haven't tried, so not 100% sure about that.

Protection [Edit]

11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

lech
  5.12b/c
lech  
  5.12b/c
The second half of the climb is worth doing the first half. The tufa moves are superb. For me the crux was high up making a big bump up and right and then getting my feet really high on some small rough patches that threatened to flake off. Don't worry about the climb easing up at the top bad slopers will keep you engaged all the way to the chains. Fun and pumpy. Feb 22, 2016

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