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Routes in 04W - Quartz Crack Face Area

A's Anguish (AKA golden ice chimney) T WI4+
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Type: Trad, Ice
FA: Alex Sargent, Tom Kontos, Bill Pelkey
Page Views: 400 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Fox on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

Several variations are possible. The left most option is the fattest and steepest and offers full value 4/4+ climbing. The right options are usually quite thin and spa by. The 'crux' is topping out the pillar/chimney about 40' up.

Location

From the stone but head up and right, up a steep slab and following easy (WI2) and some class 3/4 terrain to a 30' step of golden WI3+ that leads to the base of the actual route.

Protection

Screws. 10/13cm very useful. A #1 Camelot is very useful for reducing the pucker factor in thin conditions.

Photos

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