Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 190 ft|
|FA:||Robby Baker and Mike Surkalo, 1972|
|Page Views:||182 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Eggleston on Jan 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This route is not horrible, but the protection is if you are leading it. It could be top roped, but you would need to place directionals first. It is somewhat like a tube at first as you climb up a squeeze chimney. The crux is about 3/4s of the way up where you must climb a left-angling offwidth. You can get your right leg in the crack and use the edge for hand holds. The guidebook by Jason Haas says to rack up to a #5 Camalot, but there are places where a #6 will fit. There is a fixed pin (not listed in the guide), and the bolt is 1/4 inch! It is definitely a long way between gear placements sometimes.
This route is just to the right of the Unknown, 10d, and it starts in the same place. You can rap from the bolt anchor to another bolt anchor and then to near the routes start, but you must scramble off to the west.
Standard rack up to a #6 Camalot, one quarter inch bolt, and one piton. There is a bolt anchor at the top (to the left for the Unknown, 10d).