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Routes in Slot Club Wall

Closet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clyde Finds Wellington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtbagger's Compensation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maw, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinball Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot Club T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Sprouse and Brendan Mulhern 2016
Page Views: 645 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Sprouse on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

P1: Climb the right facing corner using perfect jams and side pulls until a committing step gains you the upper crack. Belay at a group of trees. 90ft 5.7

P2: To gain the upper crack, pass a few trees and step left to a gear anchor at the base of a left facing corner with beautiful iron plates. Stem your way up and follow the crack as it leads left into a chimney. Reach the top of the tower and take in the view. 80 ft 5.8

P3: Step up onto the short continuation and reach a large ledge. Rappel off of the cordelettes down the corner and onto the top of the first pitch. 30ft 5.6

Location

Scramble up the gully left of Slot Club Wall. Follow cairns as you continue crossing a few hundred feet of vegetated slab. Squeeze between the wall and sharp bushes to reach a boulder tucked into the corner.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot
Slings at the top of pitch 1
Cordelette at the top of pitch 3

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Longish approach for an OK climb. The start is the left of the two right-facing corners — the wider one on the right is the rappel line. Squeeze behind scrub oaks for a short way to the start.

Belaying off the trees at the top of the first pitch seemed cramped, so my wife continued to the gear belay below the second pitch. I ran the second and third together with only a bit of rope drag.

Rappel down climber’s right of the route with one rope, first from cordelettes around a white boulder (we added quick links), then from webbing around oak trees (we replaced the crusty old stuff with new webbing and a quick link). We rapped on a 70, but I think a 60 would work. Mar 27, 2018

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