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Routes in Slot Club Wall

Closet, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clyde Finds Wellington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirtbagger's Compensation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maw, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinball Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot Club T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Sprouse and Brendan Mulhern 2016
Page Views: 619 total · 21/month
Shared By: John Sprouse on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1: Climb the right facing corner using perfect jams and side pulls until a committing step gains you the upper crack. Belay at a group of trees. 90ft 5.7

P2: To gain the upper crack, pass a few trees and step left to a gear anchor at the base of a left facing corner with beautiful iron plates. Stem your way up and follow the crack as it leads left into a chimney. Reach the top of the tower and take in the view. 80 ft 5.8

P3: Step up onto the short continuation and reach a large ledge. Rappel off of the cordelettes down the corner and onto the top of the first pitch. 30ft 5.6

Location [Suggest Change]

Scramble up the gully left of Slot Club Wall. Follow cairns as you continue crossing a few hundred feet of vegetated slab. Squeeze between the wall and sharp bushes to reach a boulder tucked into the corner.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot
Slings at the top of pitch 1
Cordelette at the top of pitch 3

Photos

Ben Townsend  
 
Longish approach for an OK climb. The start is the left of the two right-facing corners — the wider one on the right is the rappel line. Squeeze behind scrub oaks for a short way to the start.

Belaying off the trees at the top of the first pitch seemed cramped, so my wife continued to the gear belay below the second pitch. I ran the second and third together with only a bit of rope drag.

Rappel down climber’s right of the route with one rope, first from cordelettes around a white boulder (we added quick links), then from webbing around oak trees (we replaced the crusty old stuff with new webbing and a quick link). We rapped on a 70, but I think a 60 would work. Mar 27, 2018

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