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Routes in Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress

Bunch of Farceholds S,TR M8
El Pero Loco S,TR M5+ PG13
Once We Were Warriors S,TR M7+
One Flew Over The Gooseberry Bush S,TR M6
Rattus Floridus S,TR M5
Type: Sport, TR, Mixed, 80 ft
FA: Steve Elder
Page Views: 192 total, 8/month
Shared By: Steve Elder on Jan 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This dry tool/mixed route is up the center of the main black buttress. There is an old, existing rock route to the right with two bolts and an anchor and an even older one to the left with two fixed pins. Pull the roof to a rest, then go straight up the almost vertical slab using small pick placements, large reaches, and tricky high steps. Pull another small overlap, and fire the easy section to the anchor. There is another small crux clipping the anchor.

The anchor is accessible from the top. At about the highest point of the crag, there is a medium-sized conifer tree close to the edge. Rap from this down to the anchor a little below the top.

Location

This ascends the center of the black face.

Protection

10 bolts and bolted anchor with quicklinks.

Photos

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