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Routes in Sugarloaf

Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deja View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dreadnaught T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fistful of Stoppers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Magic Carpet Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Return to Sender T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Sole Fusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soul Confusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superman Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tier Pressure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Valar Dohaeris T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tom Rosecrans and Mike Loitsch
Page Views: 555 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mike Loitsch on Jan 14, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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The sister route to Soul Confusion. All belays are fixed, and the route avoids all tree islands.
Start: 25' right of Soul Confusion, scramble up a fern slope to a birch tree.

P1 5.9 G: Climb a slab up and left to a right-leaning crack. Follow the crack to its top, then go straight up the face. Trend left on the slab to a fixed anchor (shared with Soul Confusion). 100'

P2 5.9 G: Follow Soul Confusion up clean face for 15', then straight up. Move right to a crack that leads to a ceiling. Over this to a fixed anchor. 90'

P3 5.9 G: Up right to groove, up stepped corners to fixed anchor. Classic and fun. Small brass nuts are necessary to keep the climb G rated 90'

P4 10a G: Up and slightly right to bulge and a stand-up crux move. Continue straight up over bulges trending left to a fixed anchor. 80'


Gear: To 2" and small brass nuts
Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.



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