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Routes in West Point

Butter Bars T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Col. Custer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lt. Dan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
MASH T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Major Tom T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C1
Piglet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reveille T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Manny Rangel, Mark Geikenjoyner
Page Views: 157 total · 6/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jan 13, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

I thought the crux was moving left under the roof; getting established there was committing.

Location

Begin on far right at a hand crack through brittle rock. Boulder up this to a wide crack that eases up to a short traverse left then a squeeze to the main roof. Traverse under this to the ledge and belay here (clip bolt first). Bring your second and have him do the face moves (with bolt) to gain the arete. Chain anchor.

Protection

Doubles to single #4,#5 cams and nuts; slings etc

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
Done and done. Jan 31, 2016
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
The bolt on the face is not confidence inspiring. Hopefully it will be replaced and a permanent anchor established as a decent option for all routes on West Point Dome. The down climb isn't bad but still easy 5th class. Head down and right toward the west. Jan 13, 2016

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