Responsible Family Men
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Ice, Alpine, 130 ft|
|FA:||Alex Lowe, John Wasson|
|Page Views:||509 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Seth Kane on Jan 13, 2016|
DescriptionThere are several ways to approach this climb and several alternate starts- I will describe the easiest route to reach the base of the ice.
Approach as per avalanche gulch and climb the first moderate ice step (WI3-). Continue up the snow gully until a obvious bench heads off left just before you enter the steep canyon containing the upper more difficult pitches of Avalanche Gulch. Traverse along this bench at roughly the same elevation until you can see Responsible Family Men. Once you reach the gully containing Responsible Family Men you have two options- you can descend into the gully for the more difficult mixed starts or the left side scramble or take the easier right side scramble.
For the easier approach backtrack to climbers right until you see an easy route (Low 5th) up the short fifteen foot cliff band above you to a narrow bench. Traverse this bench (4th and exposed- Winter Dance calls this 5.6 so it's possibly harder with low snow) crawling under the occasional overhang until just before the base of the ice where you will reach a small alcove in which a belay can be built with small-medium cams or knifeblades. Traverse along the last 20 feet of snow and ice crust to gain the pillar.