Type: Trad, Mixed, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown, 1980s? Austen Beason, Kyle Juszczyk?
Page Views: 443 total · 12/month
Shared By: Grimpeur on Jan 12, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a decent, mixed chimney climb close to the road and to town. We did it in January with powdery snow and winter conditions, so the ice was thin and sporadic at best but still offered good climbing. There might be more ice towards spring.

Scramble a few hundred feet up snow past one ledge to where the couloir narrows down. Pitch 1, M4, ascends runnels and corners to a small chockstone crux. Belay above the chockstone. Pitch 2, M5, follows a steep, narrow chimney/dihedral to the topout.

Hike down skier's left around the buttress to the road.

Location

It is in lower Taylor Canyon, ~1/2... past the post office when leaving Almont. Look for the first large buttress that nearly reaches the road. The route is the obvious, deep chimney in the center of the buttress.

Protection

1 set of stoppers, some large hexes, a single set of cams from 0.3-#3. The ice was too thin/sporadic for any gear.

Photos

Ben Ammon
Gunnison, CO
Ben Ammon   Gunnison, CO
Linked both pitches with a 60, this is a surprisingly fun climb! Feb 18, 2016
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
Isn't this the Almont Chimney? Either way, it gets climbed semi-often, I've probably climbed it a dozen times over the years. M3? Feb 21, 2017
Josef Melley
Gunnison, CO
Josef Melley   Gunnison, CO
This was climbed in the '80s...! Nov 20, 2018