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Routes in Secteur du centre

Caressons la bouteille S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dieb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frankenstein S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jules et Bertrand T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tite-Rachou T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Daniel Brousseau
Page Views: 95 total, 4/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Jan 10, 2016
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

The start is good climbing on good holds. The real thing begins when you get establish on the slab. You will feel like you never want to leave that spot. It takes slab experts to keep it 5.10a.
There is really just one section between two bolts that is really technical and hard.
Stick-clipping is a good idea.
Please don't warm-up on this one.

Location

Start right behind the big boulders.

Protection

Bolts + anchor.

Photos

Francis QC
Montreal
Francis QC   Montreal
The slab is indeed hard and the bolt is quite high to reach at the crux section. I fell between the 1st and 2nd bolt at the slab and had quite a long fall but without a scratch...I'll try it next summer since I could not complete the climb! Jan 15, 2016