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Routes in The Flackamite/Pirate wall

Beasly's Route S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chinquapin S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Climb and Punishment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drooling Badger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightmare on Labor day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ptygmatic S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Lantern T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhime of the Ancient Mariner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Somalian Pirate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunken Treasure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Where the Sun Don't Shine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
unknown 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
unknown 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Fischesser, Zachary Lesch Huie
Page Views: 123 total, 5/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 9, 2016
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Overall a fun and funky route with unique rock, some tricky pro (cams), pumpy climbing, and a wild little overhang pull on P2. Unfortunately this line can be wet in all but the driest conditions.

P1 Up face and blunt arete left of original route. Funky cams in pockets and pods ~ 5.10. Mantel under big overhang then climb up and right to shared anchor.

P2 Up short face to left facing overhang/corner. Clip bolt then pull over overhang via a tough little heel hook move. Perhaps 5.11-. Gain stance on face then climb straight up a ways, finding funky cams here and there. Finish to ledge and anchor of other route to the right. Rap or finish P3 by joining other route.

Location

Just before a large boulder that requires climbing around, locate the blunt dark-colored arete just right of Ptygmatic (and under large roof).

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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