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N Carolina
> 2. Northern Mou…
> Linville Gorge
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> Flackamite/Pirate wall
Drooling Badger
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
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Routes in The Flackamite/Pirate wall
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Beasly's Route S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Chinquapin S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drooling Badger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Nightmare on Labor day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ptygmatic S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a V4 6B |
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Red Lantern T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhime of the Ancient Mariner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Somalian Pirate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunken Treasure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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unknown 1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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unknown 2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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unknown 3 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walk the Plank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Where the Sun Don't Shine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Fischesser, Zachary Lesch Huie |
| Page Views: | 720 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jan 9, 2016 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Overall a fun and funky route with unique rock, some tricky pro (cams), pumpy climbing, and a wild little overhang pull on P2. Unfortunately this line can be wet in all but the driest conditions.
P1 Up face and blunt arete left of original route. Funky cams in pockets and pods ~ 5.10. Mantel under big overhang then climb up and right to shared anchor.
P2 Up short face to left facing overhang/corner. Clip bolt then pull over overhang via a tough little heel hook move. Perhaps 5.11-. Gain stance on face then climb straight up a ways, finding funky cams here and there. Finish to ledge and anchor of other route to the right. Rap or finish P3 by joining other route.
P1 Up face and blunt arete left of original route. Funky cams in pockets and pods ~ 5.10. Mantel under big overhang then climb up and right to shared anchor.
P2 Up short face to left facing overhang/corner. Clip bolt then pull over overhang via a tough little heel hook move. Perhaps 5.11-. Gain stance on face then climb straight up a ways, finding funky cams here and there. Finish to ledge and anchor of other route to the right. Rap or finish P3 by joining other route.
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