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Oh! Chemical Chance! Chemical Chance ... Fate and Destiny! Fate and Destiny ... BIG BANG!

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British


 Avg: 3 from 1 vote

Routes in Censored Wall

Oh! Chemical Chance! Chemical Chance ... Fate and Destiny! Fate and Destiny ... BIG BANG! T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tetragrammaton T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Throw Your Legs Around My Shoulders and Let Me Wear You Like A Feedbag T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Brandon Gottung and Ryan Doe Nov 13th 2015
Page Views: 91 total, 4/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Jan 7, 2016
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Chemical Chance is a good, clean, fun pitch that may be R-rated without a green bigbro or #9 Valley Giant, but the R-rated terrain would be no harder than 5.9. The crux is offwidth, well protected with a #5 and / or #6.

Start in the flaring crack with delicate climbing up somewhat hollow rock, straight up into a cool stembox, protected with small gear, that ends with a mantle. The initial chimney bit is secure (5.9ish) and gets progressively steeper, narrower and more physical up to the distinct crux which involves double-fist stacks or tenuous liebacking. A final sprint up a #5 corner to beautiful jugs and crimps and the anchor.

Location

The start is shared with "Freedom to Burn the Fucking Flag" on the far left side of the wall. Freedom moves left at the ledge, Chemical Chance goes straight up tackling the wideness.

Protection

.2 to #6 and bigger if you have it. Double up on .3 - #1 and an optional second #5. It may be R-rated without a #9 VG or a green Big Bro, but the #6 might fit and protect it fine. Offset finger-sized cams are nice for the start.

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