Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Almond, 11/1/2010
Page Views: 168 total · 4/month
Shared By: Marta Reece on Jan 6, 2016
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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The route goes up the left-facing corner to the right of Dynamic Duo, left of Scorpion Queen. Left of the alcove between these two climbs and about 20 feet off the ground locate a short, fairly wide ledge with a cactus in the middle of it and a bush on the right end. Start below the left end of the ledge, traverse on it right, and continue up the corner. (A direct route, though not protectable, looks not much harder and could be an option for the follower, but we didn't try it.) Follow the crack for protection, scooting to the right around what looks like it could be a loose block. Leave the corner short of the overhangs and head left. A horizontal crack/string of pockets provides your last pro before the ledge above the overhangs. Climb up left of the overhangs over less than stellar rock. Once on the ledge, go all the way left. There is some pro here, then an solid, if short, horizontal crack a few moves up over what is still quite steep terrain. For the last 15 feet or so climbing decidedly moderates and rock quality plummets. The belay bolts, clearly visible from the ground, are to the right of much of the route. A lower will take you well to the right of it.

While the climbing is not hard, the route was a heady adventure for a 5.11 leader and is not to be taken lightly. It is listed here more to explain the presence of the bolts way up there than to encourage their use, at least not until further improvements. The route was originally intended to continue up the corner for another pitch.