Mountain Project Logo

Routes in End Pinnacle

Be All, End All T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cap'm Pissgums T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Days of Future Passed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Jimmywacky T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Magnus Veritas T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poetry in Motion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Son of Gums T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncarved Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to the Machine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin
Page Views: 610 total, 27/month
Shared By: Austin Sobotka on Jan 4, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Another Cochise classic brought back from the dead. A brilliant route that certainly deserves traffic, especially now that all of the hardware has been upgraded. Expect a healthy dose of moderately to extremely run-out climbing on the easier sections (Bob Kerry gives the route a safety rating of "very "R""). That being said, the hard climbing is all reasonably well protected.

P1: Start in the same crack as for Jimmywacky, but instead of moving left to the bolt continue straight up on slightly overhanging plates to a two bolt belay (the bolts for the belay are separated vertically by about 4', so plan accordingly).

P2: Clip the higher of the two belay bolts for your first piece and continue up increasingly difficult terrain past another bolt until you finally reach the giant chickenhead about 30' off the belay. Continue up, passing one more bolt, to a comfy two bolt belay. This is the same belay as for Endgame and Jimmywacky.

P3: Clip the bolt above and to the left of the belay (part of the original belay) and continue up the blunt arete for about 70' of unprotected climbing (easy terrain) until reaching a right-angling crack that accepts 2-3" pieces. Follow the crack to a ledge then traverse directly right to a three bolt belay. This pitch might actually be x. Legend has it that the first ascensionists opted to not place any bolts on this pitch because they were in a hurry to get to a Beanfest!

From here it is possible to rap down Magnas veritas with two 50m ropes. Otherwise continue up on a pitch of your choice and descend via the standard End Pinnacle rap route.

Protection

Single rack to 4", good assortment of stoppers, lots of shoulder-length slings.

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Congrats to Austin for his onsight ascent of all three pitches 12/31/15. A great way to end the year! Jan 4, 2016