Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin
Page Views: 903 total · 23/month
Shared By: Austin Sobotka on Jan 4, 2016 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

Another Cochise classic brought back from the dead. A brilliant route that certainly deserves traffic, especially now that all of the hardware has been upgraded. Expect a healthy dose of moderately to extremely run-out climbing on the easier sections (Bob Kerry gives the route a safety rating of "very "R""). That being said, the hard climbing is all reasonably well protected.

P1: Start in the same crack as for Jimmywacky, but instead of moving left to the bolt continue straight up on slightly overhanging plates to a two bolt belay (the bolts for the belay are separated vertically by about 4', so plan accordingly).

P2: Clip the higher of the two belay bolts for your first piece and continue up increasingly difficult terrain past another bolt until you finally reach the giant chickenhead about 30' off the belay. Continue up, passing one more bolt, to a comfy two bolt belay. This is the same belay as for Endgame and Jimmywacky.

P3: Clip the bolt above and to the left of the belay (part of the original belay) and continue up the blunt arete for about 70' of unprotected climbing (easy terrain) until reaching a right-angling crack that accepts 2-3" pieces. Follow the crack to a ledge then traverse directly right to a three bolt belay. This pitch might actually be x. Legend has it that the first ascensionists opted to not place any bolts on this pitch because they were in a hurry to get to a Beanfest!

From here it is possible to rap down Magnas veritas with two 50m ropes. Otherwise continue up on a pitch of your choice and descend via the standard End Pinnacle rap route.

Protection

Single rack to 4", good assortment of stoppers, lots of shoulder-length slings.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.

Photos

Congrats to Austin for his onsight ascent of all three pitches 12/31/15. A great way to end the year! Jan 4, 2016
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018