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Routes in 6. Jumble Hotel
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Center Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dome Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dome Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fire Escape TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Turret TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lower Slab Zag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Penthouse Balcony T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rapunzel Arete TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Service Wing TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turret Bypass TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | FFA: Joey Vulpis TR Ken Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 615 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jan 2, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Interesting slab climbing low, then interesting arete higher and finish on top block with a little balcony overhang.
Start by traversing horizontally Right from the botton of the wide crack/chimney about eight feet out onto the slab face, then up the slab. Up a gentler section to a tiny platform beside an eight-inch tree. Next up directly on the arete above the tree. Trend left to the penthouse top block and climb it directly over its front overhang.
Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Start by traversing horizontally Right from the botton of the wide crack/chimney about eight feet out onto the slab face, then up the slab. Up a gentler section to a tiny platform beside an eight-inch tree. Next up directly on the arete above the tree. Trend left to the penthouse top block and climb it directly over its front overhang.
Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. Route starts at obvious foot-wide crack/chimney/gully about ten feet right from the tree. See Routes photo.
There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).
There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).
Protection
Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown.
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