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Routes in 6. Jumble Hotel

Center Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dome Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dome Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Escape TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Turret TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lower Slab Zag TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penthouse Balcony TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rapunzel Arete TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Service Wing TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Turret Bypass TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 83 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on Jan 2, 2016
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Interesting slab climbing low, then interesting arete higher and finish on top block with a little balcony overhang.

Start by traversing horizontally Right from the botton of the wide crack/chimney about eight feet out onto the slab face, then up the slab. Up a gentler section to a tiny platform beside an eight-inch tree. Next up directly on the arete above the tree. Trend left to the penthouse top block and climb it directly over its front overhang.

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. Route starts at obvious foot-wide crack/chimney/gully about ten feet right from the tree. See Routes photo.

There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).

Protection

Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Photos

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